In the late 1930s, Robert Dumas strolled along the Normandy coast as moored boats swayed on the water, held in place by anchor chains. The simple engineering of the links, their oval forms reinforced by a central bar to prevent twisting, caught his eye as something both practical and beautiful. Émile Hermès’ son-in-law was already responsible for the birth of their famous silk scarves, having designed the Jeu des omnibus et dames blanches, the first of a long series created by Dumas. A creative genius, his seaside contemplation was launched in 1938 as the Chaîne d’Ancre. The bracelet was an immediate success and helped establish a design language for the house that joined  industrial utility with aesthetic elegance.

Almost a full century later, the Chaîne d’Ancre is one of the most recognizable and iconic forms in twentieth-century jewelry designs.

Georges Lenfant's name resonates deeply within the circles of vintage dealers and discerning collectors, yet it's not uncommon for owners of Lenfant pieces to be unaware of the master behind their treasures. This anonymity is a testament to the breadth of Lenfant's collaborations, as he and his son, Jacques, lent their expertise to nearly every prestigious jewelry house imaginable. During the 1960s and 70s, the Lenfant workshop garnered acclaim for its exquisite gold chain bracelets and necklaces. Jacques Lenfant's fascination with the intricate art of goldsmithing led to the creation of pieces distinguished by finely woven textures, intricate motifs, and a harmonious blend of different gold hues. Lenfant is believed to have been among the important makers entrusted with Hermès’ jewelry production in this period, and his handiwork is apparent in the exquisite workmanship and craft in every link of this piece.

What makes the Chaîne d’Ancre so enduring is that it never fully abandons its origin. Its beauty lies in the tension between austerity and glamour, between an object of work and an object of pleasure. Hermès x Lenfant has all the hallmarks prized by collectors. For lovers of all things beautiful, this piece not only holds its own in any serious collection but elevates it; an exquisite benchmark of quality and an elegant connection to the golden age of Parisian haute joaillerie.

Rare and Original with Double Hallmarks for Hermès and LenFant.

Designer: Hermès x LenFant
Model: Chaîne d'Ancre
Year: c. 1960's-70s
Material: 18k Yellow Gold
Weight: 65 Grams
Sixe: Fits up to a 7.2" Wrist
Made in France