A hot, dry vintage that yielded very high sugars but also great acidity. TA 14.1 g/l, RS 635 g/l. 2,408 bottles.Copper-mahogany colour. There is a noticeable shift in aromas compared with the 2007, the top notes moving to old library books, varnish and dried fruit. There is a gravitas and maturity to this wine. Retaining a thick, glossy texture and intense sweetness, the marvel to this wine is that racy acid backbone, promoted by the leathery spice of maturity. In some ways it feels like a hypothetical 2016–2017 blend. It is utterly delicious. Unfurling with air to give blood orange, quince paste, honeysuckle and more, there is a saline, lip-smacking character that runs throughout. The sugars feel almost caramelised, giving a bittersweet tang. A brilliant wine, mature but so full of energy. From spoon, this simplifies to candied orange peel, salt and acid tang with generous texture. But from glass this is magnificent. (TP)